The Iconic French Knicker
The iconic French Knickers have become synonymous amongst vintage lovers and pin-up photo shoots, with Mid 20th Century glamour and elegance as an undergarment. They can be teamed up with a cami top as lounge-wear or sleep-wear.
French Knickers are a beautiful piece of lingerie with silky fabric, floaty bias cut, often adorned with embroidery and a delicate lace trim. They are high-waisted pants which are loosely fitting. Over the decades, while the waistline has evolved, French Knickers remain a beloved lingerie staple. Today, they tend to sit more on the hip rather than the high waisted garments we associate with the Mid-Century period.
French Knickers though aren't actually called by this name in France. During their evolution, it was commonly assumed that anything from France was a bit cheeky and exotic. Some suggest the name was inspired by the frilly undergarments of the risqué Can-Can dancers who captivated audiences in Parisian clubs and theatres, notably the Moulin Rouge.
In the United States, these garments are often referred to as "Tap Pants," due to the silky shorts that tap dancers wore in the 1930s for ease of movement during rehearsals.
In Australia they were known as “Scanties”.
Surprisingly up until relatively recently, women didn’t wear what we now think of as "pants". Instead, their nether regions were uncovered but obscured beneath layers of voluminous petticoats, floor-length skirts and chemises, along with corsets, bustles, and hoops. The concept of "drawers" began to develop in the early 1800s, marking the initial shift towards covered undergarments.
By the 1920s, skirts had shortened with a more boyish body shape with no curves, and fabrics had become sheerer. Lingerie styles evolved accordingly, introducing the ‘French Knickers’ style and Camiknickers, which combined the bodice and knickers into one garment.
By the 1930s, bias-cut clothing became fashionable, elongating the figure, and lingerie became slinkier and more form-fitting. This was the heyday of French Knickers and Camiknickers, crafted in silk or rayon, beautifully shaped with side button fastenings at the waist, featuring wide legs and often adorned with embroidery and lace trim. The wide legs sometimes served as a petticoat under shorter skirts and dresses.
During the Second World War, fashion evolved due to the rarity and rationing of material but if you were lucky enough to snag a damaged parachute, then the parachute silk, a form of nylon, was great for slips, knickers and nighties.
French Knickers have evolved over time, offering a range of frilly styles in vibrant colours far beyond the basic whites, pinks, and popular peach shades of the 20s and 30s. While smaller "panties" became more popular in the 1950s and 1960s, the French Knicker style has continued to prevail, cherished for its elegance and comfort.
So, whether called French Knickers, Tap Pants, Scanties or anything else, these delightful garments maintain their place in the lingerie world, celebrated for their timeless allure and sophisticated charm. They are a must for any lingerie wardrobe and the perfect choice of knicker to wear over your Suspender belts.
